Grace & Manners

Dressing History

While I have a great passion for contemporary fashion and designers and I enjoy following the runway reports, trend forecasts, couture shows and a few of the blogs related to that field, my first love was, is and will always be historical costumes.

The obsession started early on, on our family's yearly summers spent in England, were we would go to all these stately homes, castles and museums and I would always gaze with wonder, fascination and secret longing at the historical costumes or reproductions not infrequently displayed at these venues. It always made the surroundings more real, more alive to me - I could picture the people living there, moving through the very rooms I was now standing in, a hundred, two hundred years ago - silks rustling, tailcoats swishing.

Fast forward twenty years and I my love for the subject matter is unbroken. It still thrills me to see a perfectly preserved piece of, say, 18^th century clothing and to conjure up the story of its one time wearer. For what occasion was the piece made? How was it made and by whom? Was it ever worn? What do we know about the person it was made for? How did it survive the centuries? Well, you get the gist…

For me, clothes have always been an emotional armour - a transforming shell that can hide, correct, elevate, empower, restrain. Even more so in the case of historical fashion since so often these clothes will literally force you to walk, breath or stand differently, which I find in turn affects ones emotional stance as well. I remember when I was at drama school how I couldn't wait for the costumes to come into play during rehearsals and that once they did, I felt like a different person. I guess that is true for a lot of actors (to which guild I no longer belong, alas!) and I suspect costumes and their transforming powers were one of the reasons I wanted to make the stage my profession. In hindsight, I should have realised that this was a sure sign that, really, behind the scenes was where I belonged.

But I digress... My passion for historical fashion has led me to amass a substantial amount of books on the subject and I think the following images from the excellent 100 Dresses by the The Costume Institute/The Metropolitan Museum of Art, will charm even a non-enthusiast.

Court Dress (Robe à la Française), ca. 1750, British

The craftsmanship that went into this mid-18^th century court dress is incredible - keep in mind that it is all handmade. It blows my mind every time I see something like this. Court dresses of that period were customarily very wide - this one spans nearly 1.5m - to display the sumptuous fabrics and embroidery that were so often used in these kinds of dresses. I love the combination of light blue and silver thread embroidery - it reminds me of a Fabergé design.

Robe à la Polonaise, ca. 1780, American

 
The hand-painted Chinese silk of this Polonaise defies belief - the colour seems as fresh and vibrant as if it had been dyed yesterday and not over 200 years ago! A fact I can appreciate even more since starting at Textile School. I love the silhouette of the later decades of the 18^th century, when the volume of the skirts began to decrease and the classical shape of the Regency period slowly emerged.

Evening Dress, 1804, French

 
I adore the simplicity of this neoclassical design - the amazing vertical white on white embroidery really accentuates the column shape of this dress. This whisper-thin cotton fabric is so hard to find in a high quality these days…It would be the making of all my summer dressing!

Ball Gown, 1861, American

 
Again, the fabric is really what makes this Victorian ball gown stand out to me. The moiré taffeta and brocade are so divine; the design reminds of a delicate porcelain tea cup. Imagine how splendid this dress must have looked in a candle-lit ballroom, swaying through a Viennese Waltz. Beats skimpy neon tube tops and Techno music any day, I'd say!

At-Home Gown, ca. 1876, American

 
This rather dull brown dress is elevated to sophistication by the gorgeous, detailed embroidery in the style of an 18^th century man's waistcoat. Look at those tiny, even stitches and the neat row of buttons - not a thing out of place! Amazing what care has gone into this beautiful piece of clothing - especially if you consider that this dress would only have been worn at home. No tracksuits back then…

Evening Dress, Ca. 1898, French (House of Worth)

 
 
The famous House of Worth produced some of the most amazing dresses during the mid- to late 19^th century. I have never seen anything like this Art Noveau pattern in black velvet on ivory silk. The way the fabric is woven to match the shape of the dress is incredible. There is something really modern about this design - I could easily see this stunning fabric made into a prêt-a-porter design today.

All images scanned from 100 Dresses.

Work of Art

 
These shoes are so unbelievably amazing! It's the Black Iris Platform Sandal from Alexander McQueen and they could be yours for a mere $3000. Yes, that's right... I know it is ridiculous and stupidly extravagant to spend so much money on a pair of shoes but something tells me I would, if I could.

Vintage New York

Luck would have it that the Manhatten Vintage Clothing Show was taking place during the time I was in New York. There were about 90 dealers, selling everything from hats, shoes, jewellery to, of course, clothes. It was paradise.

 

I very nearly lost my heart (and money...) to a breathtaking 1930's black silk evening gown that had the most beautiful and intricate cut and amazing lace/net sleeves. At $600, it was a true collectors item...I wish I could have taken a picture!

 

In the end, I bought four wonderful pieces at Another Man's Treasure. Their stall was so neat, the clothes extremely well edited and the lovely stall owner couldn't have been more obliging and helpful. They had quite a lot of pieces in smaller sizes, which was a huge bonus since those are harder to find (at least in my experience - despite the fact that sizes used to run smaller). Anyways, here's what I bought:

 

 

Clockwise from top left: 1940's dress with lace neckline and rhinestone decoration; detail of neckline; 1950's velvet opera/evening cloak with ostrich feather cuffs; detail of 1940's skirt suit; navy 1940's skirt suit (bought from another dealer, Matinee Idol).

 

My favourite piece of the lot, however, is this stunning velvet and white satin evening dress which is, unbelievably, from the 1980's. Essentially, the 80's were just doing a (usually very bad) interpretation of the 50's and I have to say, I really hate the 80's, fashion-wise. This piece, however, had even me fooled - it is so well constructed and in a way that is very reminiscent of the 50's. Velvet can look tacky really quickly (especially if in an 80's incarnation...) but the fabric used for this dress is of an extremely good quality and has a wonderful drape. The pictures really don't do it justice - it's demanding an outfit post!

 

I also bougth a lovely Victorian inspired silk and lace blouse which in my enthusiasm to get this post up, I forgot to photograph... All in all, the show was a fantastic experience - almost on par with the Clerkenwell Vintage Fashion Fair which I love. Fairs are such a great way to shop for Vintage, especially for someone new to the game and/or who is just starting to build a signature look or focusing on a particular era. You'll be inspired!

Dior Couture Spring 2011

 
To me, couture is the holy grail of fashion. It is fantasy, magic, artistry, craft, escapism, fabric-made dreams.

John Galliano at Dior is beyond compare - his haute couture collections are perfection. For Spring 2011 he has outdone himself again; I would buy and wear every single piece if I could! And the way his shows are styled...hair, makeup, hats...aesthetic heaven!

 
 
 
 
 Oh, the shoes...and the hair...and the make-up...

It so happened, that I was wearing my hair in a Dior-esque style today. Not quite as sculptural and smooth, of course, but I am hoping practice will take me there!

 
Have a look at the entire delicious Dior collection - and the other fabulous haute couture shows - at style.com.

Collection pictures from www.style.com

Polka Dot Love

  
I am totally in love with these gorgeous satin-twill plateau sandals from Miu Miu. Although I mostly dress vintage now, I like the contrast of a contemporary shoe. In this case, there's even a nod to days gone by - 50's revisited in an eye-popping colour. Oh, if only they were mine!

Picture from Net-a-Porter.com

Set In Stone

 
Ever since I came across a short article on jewellery featuring bees in a recent Vogue UK issue, I have been quietly obsessing about animal inspired jewellery. I like the playfulness and quirkiness these designs often have - a cat playing with a pearl; a bumblebee, frozen in time under a crystal dome; a diamond encrusted spider... The visual roundup of my current favourites:

Clockwise, from top left: Green tourmaline and diamond bee drop earrings, Theo Fennell; Victorian diamond and pearl butterly brooch, Bentley & Skinner; Victorian Demi-Parure* with enamelled dragon motifs, Bentley & Skinner; Honey Comb bee cuff bangle, Theo Fennell; Pearl and diamond swan brooch, Bentley & Skinner; Diamond and green tourmaline dragonfly drop earrings, Theo Fennell; 19th century garnet and diamond beetle brooch, Bentley & Skinner; Victorian dragonfly brooch, Bentley & Skinner; Victorian diamond monkey brooch, Bentley & Skinner; Turn of the century gold and pearl cat brooch, Bentley & Skinner; Victorian moonstone and diamond spider brooch, Bentley & Skinner; Edwardian Essex crystal bee brooch, Bentley & Skinner (I love the weirdness of this one!); Yellow Gold, freshwater pearl and diamond bee drop earrings, Theo Fennell (AMAZING - very high on my jewellery wish list).

You might deducted from my selection that I am partial to Theo Fennell and Bentley & Skinner - well, I am! The Bees etc. collection from Theo Fennell is just fantastic, particularly the bee and dragonfly drop earrings. Bentley & Skinner - with two Royal Warrants no less - have some of the most stunning antique jewellery pieces around. I remember being magically drawn to their shop window whenever I happened to pass it during my time in London. Have a look at the Winterfrost collection - the selection of pearl and diamond drop earrings is stunning.

* A Demi-Parure is a partial set of jewellery, a complete one usually including a necklace, earrings, bracelet and brooch, all matching.

All pictures from Bentley & Skinner and Theo Fennell

Shoe-bi-du

To distract my mind from my vintage camper obsession, I am channelling my thoughts into another one: shoes.

You might remember my post about the perfect pair of boots a few weeks back. Well, as with so many things - and in confirmation of the observations I made about shopping for a specific item - it turned out to be a pie in the sky. Deceptively, the photograph I saw of those boots didn't show that the lacing at the front was only partly there to adjust the size: it is mainly opened via a zipper on the side. This meant that, once again, the boots were too wide for me around the calf.
 
But never one to despair - at least not when shoes are concerned - I quickly spied a new object of desire, these divine 'Quechu' boots from Chie Mihara:

Hard on its heal - forgive the pun -  is the 'Lunera' model in beautiful lilac/grey suede.

 

In fact, the whole A/W collection by Chie Mihara is utterly desirable. Like an exquisite selection of jewels they are, with quirky shapes, wonderful materials and pretty embellishments. Below are my favourite 'gems'.

 
Clockwise, from top right: Festin, Biel, Cometa and the AMAZING Arizona.

 
Clockwise, from above right: Catame (I WANT), Clotilde, Bacardi, Blom

Oh, for a purse full of money and a closet full of shoes! Hang on, methinks I do have a closet full of shoes...

All images from Chie Mihara

Glamping

I do not like camping - not for reasons of pretence snobbery or any delicate sensibilities (this may come as a surprise to some people but I am not actually made of glass and perfectly capable to withstand the outdoors) - no, it is just that I like my creature comforts i.e. a proper bed, toilet and shower (without having to share it with the rest of the world) and a meal that goes beyond a can of beans and/or freeze-dried noodles. Although on the last point I might have to retract since I have seen people whiz together veritable gourmet menus with very limited means on camp grounds.

Ha, you will cry, stupid girl, why doesn't she rent/buy/try a camper van, then she wouldn't have to relinquish any comforts. Well, dear reader, here is where this post links in: because that is exactly what I would do, because

a) yes, there is a certain level of comfort

and, more importantly,

b) it facilitates - in large measures - the one thing I love most about travelling: the freedom to go where ever you want, when you want.

And never was there a more aesthetically pleasing way to do it than with this beautiful Vintage Style Caravan from The English Caravan Company.

 
The "Tilly" is inspired by teardrop-shaped designs from the 1930's to 1950's, is entirely hand-made and bespoke, as it can be customised to personal specifications. Glass-clad bar cabinet anyone? There is also a larger version, The Classic, but I prefer this dainter version.

I'd opt for a slightly less 'busy' interior decoration; an egg-shell blue for the walls maybe, some portrait photographs or prints, soft linen for the bed, a quilt...

 
 

Nedless to say, I adore this camper - it is my new obsession. So, now all I have to do is either win in the lottery, safe up a lot of money or find a dear soul who will share in the costs and put up with my (sometimes wearisome) company... Any takers?

The Boots

I found the perfect pair of winter boots. This never happens; perfection usually keeps eluding me (and not only where boots are concerned…). This is, of course, mostly my own doing. I usually have a very fixed vision of what the item I want to buy has to look like. Consequently, I rarely find something because the chances that some designer/buyer/manufacturer had the same image in his mind than I had are frankly very slim indeed.

But I digress…This is what makes these boots perfect:

They are lace-up. Because I have very slim calves, zip-up boots never fit me
They have a touch of the old-fashioned without looking too "Victoriana"
They are sufficiently plain to allow for diversity but not so plain as to be boring.
They are black
They have the perfect boot heel: neither chunky nor spindly
They don't cost an arm and a leg and everything in between

The only problem is…they aren't actually available in the shop yet. According to the sales lady there's a delivery delay, so they will only hit the shop in mid-September. I pencilled it into my Moleskine just so I don't forget and, heaven forbid, let the perfect pair of boots slip through my hands!

Jack Frost, don't come until I have these boots…

Summer Favourites - Dresses

Summer is - supposedly - just around the corner and I have been indulging in wishful planning of the perfect wardrobe for that season. After a lot of internet-ing, deliberation and picking through my ever growing inspiratio files, here is my vision of how meet the summer in style.

Let us start with

Dresses
This really is a no-brainer; a nice frock is hands-down the easiest and quickest way to dress during the warm months - and quite frankly, at any time in the year. Instant chic and elegance. No frenzied ploughing through your wardrobe to find matching tops and skirts/trousers - just throw on a dress, add some nice shoes, sunglasses and maybe a hat - et voilà!

Vogue Patterns are great, if slightly expensive to buy here, and I especially like their Vintage, American Designers and Easy Option lines.

Left to right: (V1183) This basic, can't-go-wrong shift dress lends itself well to experimenting with different fabric and is a great choice if you are new to wearing dresses; (V1176) I love how the bow/draping detail on the bodice adds something a little extra to the otherwise clean, simple lines of the dress. I would definitely make this up in a polka dot fabric - accessorised with some elbow lenght gloves and a wide brimmed hat and you'd be giving Audrey Hepburn a run for her money! (V1174) I adore bustier dresses and this example is particularly divine. A superb fabric like this can make all the difference. Add a little boler jacket/cardigan - or a cape -  and you are good to go.
 

Left to right: (V1171) Another simple design with added interest via a wide collar. This would be nice done in a white, crisp cotton, with a little lace insert on the collar; (V1172) It is hard to beat this classic 1950's shape, with its wide skirt and slight off-shoulder v-neck, when it comes to easy glamour. This flattering pattern is also a great way into wearing vintage or vintage inspired styles; (V8648) Easy Option patterns are fantastic to experiment with different sleeves and skirt types. Plus, if you find a version that really suits you, just make it up in a variety of fabrics and that's your summer wardrobe sorted.

Now, let us move on to the wonderful world of vintage patterns. I am borderline obsessed with these and am quite proud of my growing collection, so please forgive my almost religious fervour and excitement...If you are thinking of buying vintage, just remember to check your measurements beforehand, since vintage sizes are very different to our modern ones. Or learn how to re-size patterns; it is worth it! There is nothing quite like wearing a one-off piece of clothing!

Left to right: (McCall6850) A perfect dress that will effortlesly switch from day to night. Ballet flats and a wicker bag for afternoon strolls, heels and a clutch for cocktail hour. I would go for a soft jersey fabric to make the most of the draping effect; (McCall4171) Trust me, you need something nautical inspired in your summer wardrobe. This adorable 1940's sun dress and bolero combo spells out days on the beach in the chicest way possible; (Hollywood945) If it is good enough for Claudette Colbert...Yet another case in point that simple styles are often the most elegant. Old Hollywood glamour at its best!

Left to right: (AnneAdams4786) Another classic 50’s style, the halter dress with sweetheart neckline. I would make this up in a Swiss dotted voile or strong print fabric. Omit the pockets if that is too twee for you and look out for the evening option of this style in a later post; (McCall7302) I love dresses with a low cut back because they are so quietly sensuous. This pretty, unfussy option goes right on my list of must-sew items.

Clockwise from top left: (SP108) I featured the sarong dress in an earlier post on style staples and this truly is one of the iconic designs of the 50’s. It’s ultra flattering and so versatile with its detachable shoulder sash and halter strap. You need one. End of argument; (D40-6659) This is such an unusal, beautiful design, with its draped skirt and cut-outs on the neckline. Heads will be turning with this one, to be sure! (Vogue7802) Although this is actually an evening gown, I think this would be great as a summer day dress. Why reserve long dresses for formal occasions?

You might have noticed, dear reader, that I have not included any ready-made dresses. It's not that there isn't any choice out on the high street or in the designer collections but there is, in my opinion, nothing quite as satisfying as making your own clothes. The joy of creating something from scratch , of turning an idea, an image, a piece of fabric into a wearable reality is just wonderful. So, let your creativity and your hands get busy this summer!

Pattern images from Best Vintage Patterns, Pattern Retrospective, So Vintage Patterns and Vogue Patterns